May 24, Day 18, Missoula Montana-58 miles

Woke up to the sound of Idaho sized rain drops pounding the roof of the cabin. I set up my wet weather gear and made my way over to the restaurant lodge for breakfast. There seemed to be several perturbed people murmuring and shaking their heads and I wondered if the service was bad.It was not the service. They were reacting to the news from the authorities that the Lochsa River had risen two feet overnight and had become too dangerous to allow rafters to run it. Hundreds upon hundreds of Memorial Day weekend rafters had their holiday ruined by the news. Outfitters and rafting companies were ordered not to take anyone out on the river until further notice. Almost everyone at this lodge and every other lodge for fifty miles was here for that very reason.

Lochsa River

The owner told me that she was going to refund everyone's lodging fees for the weekend, even if they chose to stay. She said it was the right thing to do. "The right thing to do." How wonderful it is that there are people who are willing to make a gesture in the wake of other's rotten luck because it is the right thing to do. She said the outfitters would surely do the same. That's how they roll up here.

The lodge is adorned with the hides of bears, mountain Lions and even a wolf. There are wolves roaming around up in these parts and a conservation officer living nearby was recently watching his 2,4  and 6 year old daughters playing in their backyard  when he saw a huge 165 lb wolf slowly making his way toward his children in the tree line. A 30-6 round ended the threat soon after and the wolf's hide is draped over a bar in the restaurant. I took a picture and will include it later. Animal rights activists don't even bother to come up here because, in the owners words, nobody up here is the slightest bit afraid of them so they go off to other areas where people are more likely to be intimated. Whether you agree with their lifestyle or not, you have to be impressed with their conviction.

Wolf hide in Lochsa Lodge  restaurant

I suited up and made my way up Lolo Pass in the pouring rain, a 13 mile climb which summits at the Idaho/Montana border. The first 8 miles were rather mild and it was only the last 5 that required the ponies. They came out feisty and froggy and drove Silver up to the summit in fine fashion. The views were stunning and the rain had stopped. It was cold and snow was everywhere but the crisp cold air felt good. I snapped a couple of photos and started the 35 mile downhill to the town of Lolo and then a quick 10 miles into Missoula Montana.

Gambling is legal in Montana(I didn't know that) and the state controls the distribution and pricing of liquor. I passed three casinos on the way into Missoula and they are not run by Indian tribes!

I am now back in cell service range and have a digital camera.

Tomorrow I turn south/east and make my way down the country toward Wyoming and then Colorado.

Have a great Memorial Day!